Saving Nutmeg for the Pickles and the Perfume

Kuala Lumpur, 14 March 2025 – Nutmeg has long been a prized ingredient in Southeast Asia, known for its culinary, medicinal, and aromatic properties. While commonly used in food and beverages, nutmeg is also gaining recognition in the global fragrance industry. As luxury perfume brands strive to create unique and exotic scents, they are turning to natural ingredients sourced from diverse regions, including Southeast Asia.

In Malaysia, Penang is renowned for its nutmeg production, where the fruit is deeply ingrained in local heritage. Traditionally enjoyed in the form of pickled nutmeg, syrup, and medicinal balms, the industry has supported generations of farmers and small-scale businesses. One of the key players in the region is Ghee Hup Nutmeg Factory, which has been instrumental in promoting nutmeg-based products and diversifying offerings such as nutmeg oil, juice, and balms. The demand for these products remains strong, both locally and internationally, with Penang’s nutmeg often sought after for its distinct aroma and flavor profile. 

Beyond Malaysia, nutmeg farming plays a crucial role in the livelihoods of farmers in Indonesia, where traditional harvesting and processing techniques have been passed down for generations. In some regions, nutmeg is more than just a commodity—it is deeply tied to cultural traditions and environmental conservation, shaping the way local communities interact with their land.

Like Indonesia, the nutmeg production in Malaysia too faces challenges such as price fluctuations and seasonal harvest cycles. Looking at how our neighbor country has sustained and expanded its nutmeg sector, there may be valuable lessons to strengthen Malaysia’s own nutmeg industry.

The Tradition of Nutmeg Management and Its Challenges

In Indonesia, traditional nutmeg harvesting in the Papua region is an activity that involves all family members. However, the role of women in the post-harvest process is dominant. They are responsible for gathering the nutmeg fruits that fall from the trees, separating the flesh from the seeds, and drying the nutmeg.

One such woman is Mama Siti, a 52-year-old nutmeg farmer and a member of the cooperative board led by Indigenous women in West Papua, Indonesia. Her skills and diligence in leading women in processing nutmeg into market-ready products are key to the success of producing high-quality nutmeg.

For the Indigenous Peoples of West Papua, the nutmeg tree symbolizes life itself. Considered the “embodiment of women,” the nutmeg tree plays an important role in supporting the community, and strict taboos prohibit the felling of these trees. The deep respect for the nutmeg tree has led to unique traditions surrounding its harvest, reflecting the community’s sustainable relationship with nature.

Two months before the harvest season, the Indigenous Peoples gather to discuss – “wewowo” in the local language. During this time, they hold a ceremony in which they symbolically “dress” the nutmeg tree with a kebaya, a traditional outfit usually worn by women. This is a sign that no one is allowed to harvest young nutmeg, referred to as “kera-kera.” The trees are “undressed” just before the harvest, allowing the community to begin harvesting the nutmeg. After the harvest, the land is left to recover naturally.

Mama Siti explains, “The nutmeg trees in the village forest of Dusun Pala, Pangwadar Village, Kokas District, Fakfak Regency, West Papua are already abundant, so the men’s task is usually only to climb the trees to pick the ripe fruit. As for the processing, so far, there are 118 women who clean the nutmeg fruits, separate the flesh from the seeds, and then dry them under the sun.”

Unfortunately, the low selling price of nutmeg and the harvest cycle, which occurs only twice a year, make it difficult for many farmers to make a living. Many of them have only seasonal jobs and struggle to meet their daily needs.

“The price of nutmeg often fluctuates and is unpredictable depending on the season. When the price drops, the income from nutmeg is only enough to meet daily needs. After the harvest season ends, many of us are forced to switch occupations to support our families,” adds Mama Siti.

“The Tomandin nutmeg tree is not just a tree to us. It is a legacy from our ancestors, passed down through generations to give us life. I can only say that Tomandin nutmeg is a miracle for us.”

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